Steady with Style

This article was developed from the book, The Brittany: Amateurs Training with Professionals by Martha Greenlee and David Webb.  The 2nd edition is now available from Glade Run Press.  Check it out; it is an excellent read for all levels and all breeds!

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Introducing Gun Fire (part 2)

(from The Brittany: Amateurs Training with Professionals)
By Martha H. Greenlee and David A. Webb copyright ©

Bill Gibbons likes to introduce gunfire around birds, at the instant the pup makes a dive to catch the bird he’s chasing. The pup is usually so excited he ignores the noise. Before Bill begins he wants the pup to chase and catch a bird. Until the pup does this, he’s not ready to be shot over.  Some puppies may point the bird, flush it, and even chase aggressively. However, other pups may be afraid of the bird, and, instead of catching it, they re-point it. A pup that re-points may not be ready to be fired over.

To begin, Bill puts out a couple of pigeons with cardboard tethers in an open field as if he were introducing a pup to pigeons. He might pull some flight feathers from one wing of the bird if it is a strong flyer. He puts the check-cord on the pup and lets him hunt a little before bringing him into a bird. The pup will either point or pounce. It doesn’t matter which he does as long as he doesn’t catch it. Once the bird is in the air, Bill drops the check-cord and lets the pup chase it.  Bill watches to make sure that the pup runs aggressively and catches the bird. Only if he catches the bird is he ready to be shot over.

Now, Bill works him on a second bird. Once the bird is in the air, Bill lets go of the check-cord and the pup chases again. He doesn’t fire yet but waits for the instant the pup makes a dive for the pigeon. Now, Bill fires the blank pistol. At this time Bill is at least 50 yards away. He carefully watches the pup for any signs of concern. Does the pup notice the report of the gun?  Most pups are so fired-up they ignore the noise, but once in a while a pup will hesitate. If the pup hesitates at the sound of the shot, Bill works him on a third bird. This time he does not fire. He wants the pup to enjoy catching another bird before he puts him up. Bill gives him a couple of days to think about it before re-introducing gunfire. Once the pup ignores the gunfire, Bill can shoot earlier―while the pup is chasing the bird. At this time, Bill also begins to fire multiple times and gets closer to the puppy.
Once the pup is ignoring the blank gun or cap gun, he’s ready to be introduced to the shotgun―but only after he has been fired over for a couple of weeks and he’s oblivious to the noise. A light load works best before moving to a heavier gauge. Remember to introduce the bigger gun in stages, the same way you introduced the blank gun. 

Once gunfire has been introduced, continue to be careful when you shoot around your pup. Since you can make a dog gun-shy at any time, here are a few common sense rules that apply throughout your pup’s hunting career.
• Never take a pup to a skeet or trap range to see if he is gun-shy.  You will have a gun-shy pup from this type of noise exposure.
• Never fire a shotgun when you are behind a young or inexperienced dog.  Fire when you’re in front of him so the noise doesn’t startle him.
• Use one gunner, especially the first season.  Four or five people shooting over a young dog is the fastest way to send him, panic stricken, fleeing back to the truck.
• Shoot only at the birds that your dog points.  If he’s pointing, he’s anticipating the shot.  If you shoot at wild flushing birds, the noise may frighten him.

As your pup’s training progresses, the noise of gunfire will become a reward.  The sound tells him that birds are in the air.  If you are careful, if you introduce the gun intelligently and use common sense, your pup will thrill to the sound of the shot for the rest of his life.
 
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